Holy Holiness

Took the subway out to Vatican City this morning. (The subway is great, but of limited convenience as there are only two lines – an east west and a north south). What is to be said about the Vatican? It is a 109-acre country bounded by a wall that does not belie the untold treasures within. I had no plan of attack and was happy to take up the offer of a 3-1/2 hour guided group tour. What I know of art, architecture, and early Christian/papal history can fill a tupperwear container, so having an intelligent, passionate guide (erstwhile Ph.D. candidate?) makes all the difference. Without him, I would probably still be there right now hugging my knees tightly to my chest crying quietly somewhere lost among the sculpture, tapestry, and frescoes. They would have to send in the Swiss!

The Vatican and the Pope are guarded solely by Swiss soldiers. Seems back in the day (my brain is chock full of new info and I’m a little fuzzy on the details), Swiss soldiers were world-renown for their bravery and skill. When Rome was invaded by the Germans, 140 Swiss soldiers hired as mercenaries fought to protect the Pope and while over 90 lost their lives, the remaining successfully saved his life. Zero Italian soldiers lost their lives because they all fled when they heard the Germans were coming. Ever since, the Swiss, and only the Swiss, protect the Pope. Don’t they look ferocious?? The Sistine Chapel really was the highlight for me. Of course, photography was forbidden there, but I have lots of other pics. Click here.

I had my first Italian love affair this afternoon at Trattoria del Pallaro. This restaurant was recommended to me by Greg’s step-mother Erin who owns a small Italian wine import business in Seattle (thanks Erin!). It is prix-fixe with no menu so I sat down and courses just started coming. 1st -- prociutto, olives, tomatoes, lentils, 2nd
-- 2 small rice balls and a meat ball, 3rd -- pasta in some sort of knee-buckling pink sauce, 4th -- veal like none I’ve ever had before, eggplant soaked in a mild vinegar (?), mozzarella, and freshly made potato chips, 5th -- a shot glass of freshly-squeezed apricot juice and a gorgeous slice of pastry with preserved apricots and a lightly sweet filling.







The proprietor, in his 70s, much enjoyed my great enjoyment of his familiy’s food – two elderly Italian women in aprons and traditional head scarves came out on occasion to take some air. He cupped the back of my head, he pinched my cheek, he took my hand and guided me in carving away the crust of my pastry and showed me how to dunk it in my wine. We embraced as I left and he kissed me full on the mouth. I was very tickled. A good time was had by all.

I ended my day with a concerto of enchanting opera arias. A small company with an orchestra and singers puts together a very accessible show in an intimate setting in a beautiful church. The arias are greatly edited – 14 arias in 90 minutes including intermission. Opera-light. Tomorrow, no real plans. Shopping I think.
When I die of gluttony, please wedge my body into something like this: