Red Roof Inn

Arrived in Florence by train around noon, and the first order of business after checking into my hotel was of course, lunch. Florence is such a small city. I traversed the map from north to south in less then 10 minutes. My first impression was one of warmth – the warm sun, the yellow and orange worn stucco buildins,the terra cotta tile roofs. Warm and intimate. Somehow the streets are even narrower here,

Erin had me searching for one of the oldest trattoria in the city, Trattoria Sostanza Troia. I found it in an alley of a street, a very unassuming place with just a handful of tables and a kitchen that closed at 2pm.I ordered a plateful of pomodori, thinking about the tomatoes from the day before, and I asked the waiter of their specialities. He pointed out a few in Italian. I ordered the first one he chose, tortino di carciofi, though I had no idea what was going to be placed in front of me and when he put it down I still didn’t.



I recognized egg but the middle was a mystery. It ended up being artichokes that had been lightly fried but there was a richness to it, perhaps cheese or cream. I loved it. After seeing some fantastic-looking cured meat at the table next to me, I asked for a taste of “whatever they were having.” The waiter brought me a piece of sopressata which I had had before and finocchiona which was a revelation. I had him write down the name of it. It is made with fennel seed and before you dismiss it, thinking oh I don’t like licorice. I’ve been discovering recently just how versatile and unlike licorice fennel seed is (thanks to Juliet who got me some along with a spice grinder for my birthday!). Ask me sometime about my turkey burgers made with ground fennel seed and feta cheese.



Dessert was a plate full of raspberries soaked in chianti and topped with sugar, another Tuscan specialty.



Lunch would have been perfect had it not been for the obnoxious New Yorkers at the table next to mine. They were an elderly couple with their grown son and his boyfriend. They bickered the entire time loudly while the two men just hung their heads silently. However their ostentatious display of wealth reminded of how much a fashion center Florence is. Much of their conversation centered on a Hermes bag -- “the garden party bag in that new color” -- that the wife had purchased. I happened to walk by the Hermes store and out of curiousity put on my best air of entitlement and went in. That bag in canvas was 1,300 euros, in leather 1,700. 2K on a handbag. Florence is a place for the wealthy. It is full of ridiculously expensive handbag stores and every designer has a boutique. Don’t think Paris Hilton, more Ivana Trump.

I had my first disappointment today – Michaelangelo’s David. They’ve put it in a gallery by itself with some other minor religious Renaissance paintings. 13 euros for an advance ticket -- could have been 10 had I wanted to stand in a ridiculously long line -- and I was in at 3:45 and out by 4. Sure he’s very pretty and he’s huge (photography forbidden) but I found him underwhelming and disproportionate. With such big hands and feet, I’ll just say he got the short end of the stick.

What was a wonderful surprise was the Ponte de Vecchio. I had heard that it was the most beautiful bridge in Florence and I thought that must mean that each brick is painted with its own individual fresco and it’s plated with gold and inlaid with rubies, but no, it’s a bridge that’s like a street with shops and homes built along it. Ironically though, all the stores are jewelry shops selling gold and jewels.

Will get pics of the Duomo up and of Florence when I can find a better connection. My accommodations have improved and I have a terrace!

A note on gelato. Erica had a very relevant question. What about gelato!? Yes, gelato. I’ve had it a few times and it's yummy and I especially like the way it is displayed with such aplomb here in Florence.



But is it sacrilege to say that it’s just not my thing? Ice cream has never been my thing. I like it, but it’s never top of mind when I’m craving something. I’ll keep trying, don’t worry. And also, just between us, sometimes when I’m taking in all this stuff, I think, “This looks just like Vegas.”